The stories behind artisan foods are often as fascinating as the product itself. What we eat and how we share it says so much about our own culture and our attitude to life. It seems that the further we travel from our origins, the more we want to remember them through 'touch points' such as food. Everyday normality is also formed and paced by small rituals, many around the making and serving food. It is not just in the eating that we find comfort, but in the planning, preparation and serving too.
As the Boys and I camp out in our new place, I realise that a roasting chicken can make a house into a home and a well stocked pantry gives one a deep sense of security. Whilst we are living frugally at the moment, the dining room table becomes a great leveller of circumstance and we can sit happily eating familiar food and be anywhere at any time - even if it is on white plastic chairs!
Amal Ma'ani, co-owner of KishMish, still shakes his head in wonder at his Mother who cooked "bounteously" everyday for her large family whilst living on social benefits in a caravan in the Cornish countryside. His family who are Iranian Baha'i, were forced to flee Iran and became refugees in England, losing everything along the way. His mother must have been formidable as not only did she cook Persian feasts in a caravan, but within a year had saved enough money to buy a house for the family.
How does an Iranian who lived in a caravan in the Cornish countryside end up in Pietermaritzburg making cordials, you have to ask yourself?
I spoke to Sharon and Amal in their kitchens at the Chocolate Factory in Pietermaritzburg last week, and asked them this very question. They've been together for 29 years having met in Cornwall when they were 15. They then moved their 4 young kids to Antrim in Northern Ireland at the height of the "Troubles" and only moved out to South Africa in 2003, where Amal's brother lived. Theirs is a true immigrant family story - so often starting with food and involving the whole family working all hours.
The Ma'ani's journey is reflected in the *kishmish range of products from their Lebanese Za'attar, Persian Somaq to Cheeky Red Pepper Chutney to Litchi & Pear Iced Rooibos Tea cordial. There is a wide range of rubs, spices, oils, jams and chutneys - but they are best known for their cordials. Initially we were thrilled to find their Elderflower Cordial at our Rosetta Market, so reminiscent of English summers and hedgerows - but we've recently fallen hard for their Persian Mint and Grape Vinegar cordial, which is delicious with soda water and some added mint from the garden.
*kishmish's food inspires this reluctant cook to crack out the Ottolenghi recipe books and cook up a storm, maybe not quite at the level of Amal's family caravan feasts, but certainly good food shared around the white plastic table table on a lazy Sunday afternoon.
The Ma'ani's and I chatted for ages together about our inspirations, our frustrations and what has worked for us, as artisan enterprises. The Ma'ani's are a fascinating couple and this shows in their products, which are currently set to expand significantly in South Africa:
Julia: How did you get started?
KM: We opened a shop four years ago in the Midlands selling bought-in products and slowly started to introduce our own. After positive feedback, we soon realised that we needed to concentrate on developing our own range and focus on distribution. We've built up the business through attending farmer's markets and supplying specialty stores all over South Africa. We've now been approached by a large retail chain.
Julia: So you're at the 'Tipping Point' that we all dream of?
KM: Yes we are. It's probably the hardest part of a business like ours. How to grow and meet increased demand.
Julia: It's a crowded market. What distinguishes your products?
KM: As 'foodies' we love flavour and are "looking for better than average". Persian food is subtle. We work from that basis and play with new ideas which we incorporate from all over. We also think our packaging makes us stand out.
Julia: Having started in the KZN Midlands, what are your views of the local food markets?
KM: They've come a long way, even in the last 18 months. They are good places to meet potential suppliers and you can also keep control of your products and get direct customer feedback. We probably need more places like 'Piggly Wiggly' [situated at Lions River on the R103] where people can visit a variety of food producers together.
Julia: Do you wish you'd done this 20 years ago?
KM: "Absolutely!".
Julia: What's next?
KM: The order from the large retail supermarket chain is making us think practically how we can expand. At the same time we want to continue to have fun. We're going to do some 'Pop-Up' supper clubs at friend's restaurants, showcasing Persian flavours and our favourite foods (JML: "I'll definitely drive down for those!") and continue to look for new flavours and products.
Curious about Persian food and want to use some of *kishmish's spices? Try Diana Henry's Persian Chicken Stew with Pistachios and Mint or this unusual but delicious (we make it in the bakery for lunch) Chilled Persian Yoghurt Soup from Food & Wine, served with rose petals.
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| Source: Food & Wine |
*kishmish can be found at:
The Design Quarter at The Chocolate Factory
50 Winston Road
Pietermaritzburg
Telephone: 073 635 2010
Email: goodies@kishmish.co.za
Web: www.kishmish.co.za
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